Catwalk Cut: The Beauty of Erickson Beamon Fall 2012 Wednesday 22 February, 2012
1920s flappers set the tone for beauty at Erickson Beamon’s Fall 2012 presentation, where crimped faux bobs, violet-tipped lashes and ombré nails reign supreme.
I’m pleasantly surprised that every beauty detail is thought of at Erickson Beamon’s Fall 2012 presentation—right down to the skin, a sadly mistreated and overlooked part of the backstage beauty regimen at most of Fashion Week. But at Erickson Beamon, skincare brand Arcona (for Beauty.com) is firmly ensconced in a corner, poised at the ready to help restore models’ skin to its shinier, happier self. “These girls—they may be young, but think of what they’re skin is going through this week!” exclaims Arcona’s Bethany Wojtech. “We’re making sure their skin isn’t looking irritated or chapped. For this makeup look, the base needs to be dewy.” To evince that glow from these poor girls’ tired dermis, models are first treated to Arcona Triad Pads, triple-action cleanser/toner/hydrator pads that gently remove makeup while delivering—not stripping—moisture. Then, Peptide Hydrating Complex followed by Hydrating Serum further plump the skin (the former with peptides, the latter with hyaluronic acid). Finally, Wojtech smooths the eye area with Eye Dew, preparing it for an extremely pigment-intensive eye design.
Thankfully, Wojtech slips me some Arcona products; after all, I’ll be trudging from show to show in the arid winter cold—I should take care of my skin, she says. At this point in Fashion Week, I’m just falling ill, and my nose has taken on a none-too-pretty crimson tone. I find that Arcona Chamomile Balm, which—as the name suggests—contains redness-deflating blue chamomile oil, cuts down the ruddiness while calming irritation and banishing any flaking. Thank goodness, because interviewing people in cramped quarters with an icky nose is embarrassing.
But back to that eye design: Created by MAC lead makeup artist Fatima Thomas, this layered look sends serious smoke signals, courtesy of MAC Pro Paint Stick in Black Black, painted on in a rounded shape over the lid, and MAC Eye Shadow in Carbon (a personal favorite of mine), which she’s blending outward to diffuse the edges of the design. What’s special about Thomas’ “vampy, 1920s flapper style” is the lashes: She’s generously coating them in MAC False Lashes Extreme Black and then dusting the wet mascara with MAC Pigment in Violet to lend a trippy purple cast to the batters.
Seeing as the main thread to the look is “flapper,” a faux bob with finger waves is a natural next step. Salon AKS hair lead Nyree, who’s working with Phyto for Beauty.com, defines the front-lying retro finger waves with a mix of Phyto Professional Wet Gel and Phyto Professional Strong Sculpting Gel, but then modernizes the hairstyle by loading up on imperfect texture, using a unique technique that doesn’t quite ring “try this at home.” “I literally just came up with this idea about a week ago,” she shares, describing how she’s creating a softer crimp by winding hair around the end of a tail comb, which she then clamps with a flat iron to set the kink.
“Usually with this type of ’20s style, you need a serious wet set with pin curls, and then you have to sit under a dryer—but we don’t have time for that! The tail comb-crimping method allows us to do it faster,” Nyree explains. The resulting slightly rounded crimp—which I thought she called a “sh-crimp,” but we later clarified that I was hearing things, as I often do—beefs up the bob nicely without coming off too ’80s-kinked.
And what modern-day flapper would be complete without a dark-and-stormy ombré nail? “We’re doing light into dark,” says lead nail tech Honey, who’s working with Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics for Beauty.com. “So it’s the reverse of a typical fade; the tip is black Tarred, and the base is either Vintage (dark burgundy) or Blackboard (forest green).” I notice that Honey is wielding a strange tool in her hand; in her other hand, she holds a triangular makeup sponge that brandishes a dollop of polish. “What is that?” I ask pointing at the odd tool. She explains that to exact a perfect fade, she’s using a “stamper” that she dips into that dollop of polish, and then dots onto the nail, using a sponging technique. “You can get the stamper at Michaels Arts & Crafts,” she divulges, adding, “This is how I always do my fades; it’s cleaner, quicker, faster.” Clean, quick and fast: All perfect words for the backstage beauty of Fashion Week.
PS: If you haven’t checked out Honey’s work, do so. She’s not only clean, quick and fast, but also one of the most talented editorial nail artists out there. Case in point: The Maybelline 2012 calendar I drooled over last month. That’s her handiwork.
(Main image: left courtesy of MAC)