Catwalk Cut: Backstage Beauty at Tadashi Shoji Fall 2013 Monday 25 February, 2013
Icy elements and snow-misted nails give beauty a frostbitten feel at Tadashi Shoji’s Fall 2013 runway show.
“The hairstyle is a little crazy,” says lead stylist Rodney Cutler backstage at Tadashi Shoji. Working with Ulta, he’s crafting a simple texturized twist (literally) on the old ponytail. So what’s crazy about that? “Well, the backstory is she’s been running through the forest, so it’s very romantic-looking, sort of fuzzy, dry and airy texture. It’s a little crazy,” he repeats with a smile.
To begin, Rodney blows hair straight using Redken 10 Guts Volume Spray Foam and then teases sections from the root for a bump in volume using Redken Powder Grip 03. “The Powder Grip not only gives body, but also that dry airy texture you need for the look,” he says.
A hidden braid woven and twisted into a tight bun at the nape of the neck is a support structure that eliminates “heft” in the hair and “changes the head shape” making it smaller and more uniform from girl to girl, Rodney explains. The braid also works as a foundation for the ensuing twist he creates, allowing him to anchor the twist securely into the bun. That twist unravels at the end, mussy and free-flowing. “We’re also creating a soft side part, keeping the hair around the face a little loose so that when the girls hit the runway, it drifts a little for an ethereal look,” he says.
“This is a very different mood,” explains MAC lead makeup artist Luc Bouchard. “She’s a Russian czarina who’s escaped and running through the Russian tundra, and she’s frostbitten from the elements.” Yes, this mood sounds dark and not-at-all romantic, and yet the makeup is lovely. “We left the skin raw and simple,” he says, citing the use of MAC Studio Moisture Fix and Prep & Prime Skin Smoother as all that’s really needed to keep the skin looking “plumped and fresh. It’s really as free-looking as possible.”
The two focal points of the makeup design—the eyes and lips—exude the idea of frostbitten without appearing overwrought. A blend of pearly neutral hues sets the canvas for the lids, which he then pops with MAC White Pigment on the inner eyelids for an “extra frosty effect.” He then paints Nocturnal Superslick Eyeliner only on the top lash line, and “seals” it with White Pigment for a “pop of shimmer.”
The “bitten” lip is a masterful mix: Luc preps lips with MAC Lip Conditioner for “extra cushion,” blots off the extra moisture with a tissue and dabs on Cyber Lipstick with a lip brush, starting at the center of the lip and flushing outward. The final touch: He draws on MAC Just My Type Lip Pencil throughout the lip, and blots with a tissue. “It’s a frostbitten bitten lip,” he smiles.
Appropriately, the nails look equally icy, lacquered by China Glaze lead manicurist Joy A. Johnson. She’s using China Glaze Dandy Lyin’ Around, an “airy shade with light dustings of sparkle, like fresh snow falling from the sky,” she says. “It’s a great hue because it’s got a sheen to it that’s not a glitter. If you apply two very thin coats, as we are, it really does look like a light mist of snow.”
Would you wear the frostbitten beauty look seen at Tadashi Shoji? Sound off in the comments!
(Last image: Courtesy of China Glaze via MatthewCarasella/SocialShutterbug.com; all other images property of Karie L. Frost/FearNoBeauty.com)