Catwalk Cut: Backstage Beauty at Jeremy Scott Fall 2013 Wednesday 27 February, 2013
SoCal skate-punk meets Desperately Seeking Susan for the brazen beauty at Jeremy Scott’s Fall 2013 show.
I grew up around skateboarders in Southern California. I also collected Garbage Pail Kids cards—those gross-out characters that for some reason appealed to my then-unformed taste. These two parts of my childhood seem to be every bit what Jeremy Scott’s Fall 2013 collection is about: skater duds given a graphic twist with frenetic, cartoonish prints punctuated with brains and guts and dangling tongues.
“I think the word that would best sum up the makeup is ‘rad,’” says MAC lead makeup artist Kabuki backstage. “And I’m finding the most elegant solution to get that vibe across,” he laughs. What this means: Lightning-bolt eye makeup made cheerier with high-voltage green and a magenta lip that would look girly if it weren’t offsetting a faux Mohawk.
“The eye makeup is this simple gesture, but it feels fun,” Kabuki says. “Jeremy showed me these designs that you find on the underside of skateboards—these cartoonish monsters and crazy shapes—and I felt like the bright green feels a bit like those monsters.” By the way, that “monster” green is mix of MAC Pro Chromacake in Pure White and Landscape Green.
The lip—so beautifully executed—is just one product (which these days seems entirely unheard of): MAC Magenta Lip Pencil. “I’m staining the lip with it; it allows the lip to look darker in the middle,” he says.
And even though skater-punk lightning rods frame each model’s face, Kabuki insists that this makeup design is “about a woman who’s tired of being a girl and she’s ready for the next step.” What that step is, I’m not entirely sure—but I sure do love that lip.
The aforementioned faux-hawk is the brainchild of Wella lead Eugene Souleiman. “Because there’s this strong punk-goth element to the show, I wanted to make the hair look really raw,” he says. “I like the fact that there’s loads of color in the collection, and yet we’re going with black hair. It makes it look harder.” He also sites the ’80s movie Desperately Seeking Susan as a mode of inspiration, but in the end admits, “This is an anti-style style. If we did something simple for this show, it would look odd. This is the only kind of hair we could do.”
“With everything going on—the dead stuff in Jeremy’s prints—he asked for a pop of color. He wanted some life,” says lead manicurist Pattie Yankee. She keeps repeating the term “dead stuff,” and I am scared to ask exactly what this means. (At this point in the interview, I haven’t caught a glimpse of the clothes.) Finally, I ask for some clarification. “Dead stuff?” “Yeah: Brains and eyeballs hanging everywhere,” she laughs. “Hmmm,” I say.
So a manicure that breathes life into the look needs tons of hyper-color pigment, and Pattie has the answer: Her new line of nail polishes, Patricia by Patricia Yankee. “I custom-made the orange and magenta colors for the show, but Life (a neon green), Reign (an electric blue) and Son (a bright yellow) are all part of the core line,” she says.
Models receive one of the five hues and, as an added element, each blinding polish job is having some of its vibrancy stripped away by way of a layer of matte top coat. “This is street girl who doesn’t take care of herself; maybe she lets her nails chip. For me, the best way to take some of the ‘polish’ off is to matte the manicure,” Pattie says. Note to skate-punk girls: Matte top coat’s your friend.
What do you think of the SoCal skate-punk beauty look created for Jeremy Scott? Sound off in the comments!
(All images property of Karie L. Frost/FearNoBeauty.com)