Catwalk Cut: Backstage Beauty at Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2013 Wednesday 06 March, 2013
Man Ray’s photography merges with art deco details for a new kind of beauty at Bibhu Mohapatra.
As a photography buff myself, I’m pleased to hear that designer Bibhu Mohapatra‘s turned his attention to photographer Man Ray for his Fall 2013 collection inspiration—in particular, how his imagery played with stark contrasts and utilized solarizations and rayographs. Such distortion becomes the starting point for makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. “I like the idea of hand-painted photographs, and showing this through makeup. I want no harsh lines on the face,” she says, explaining why the eyelids are imperfectly glossed and the lip edges lightly feathered.
For the mouth, she dabs on Maybelline SuperStay 14HR Lipstick in two hues, Wine and Forever, and then artfully softens the lip line so that the lips “look like a rosebud unfolding from the middle,” Tilbury says. The other big focus, the eyes, receive Maybelline Color Tattoo in Bad to the Bronze from lash line to brow, as well as underneath. “I’m then applying Maybelline Shine Sensational in Minty Sheer over the entire eye to give this dreamy effect,” she says.
Skin appears fresh, having received Maybelline Dream Fresh BB Cream and Dream Lumi Highlighting Concealer. Tilbury concentrates her attention on the cheeks, finger-painting Maybelline Dream Bouncy Blush in Rose Petal and Coffee Cake all the way up under the eyes, as well as on the apples. “By doing this placement, it’s more youthful; it doesn’t drag the face down,” she explains.
For the elaborate updo, hairstylist Amit Abraham zeros in on a graphic element in Mohapatra’s collection: a honeycomb print. “We’re creating this same pattern in the hair by using a bunch of elastics,” he explains. The execution is elaborate: First, Abraham preps hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Milk and blow-dries it smooth. Then, he gathers hair into a low ponytail, separates the tail into two sections, and places elastics two inches apart on each section. He twists the two sections together into a rope, secured them at the bottom and then folds the rope into a bun.
“I’m applying new L’Oréal Professionnel True Grip between the elastics for grip and texture, and then sort of pulling the hair a little loose between the elastics to give this honeycomb shape,” he explains.
The rest of the hair “contrasts between frothy texture and super-sleek shine,” Abraham says, pointing to a deep side part that breaks into a tight, pulled-back section and one that he crimps using a ¾-inch curling iron and tucks partially into the bun, leaving the rest to float dreamily as the models walk the runway.
On the nails, manicurist Honey works in the idea of art deco elements. “Bibhu is inspired by the ’30s, and when I looked at the fabrics, I wanted a nail art design that looks graphic and strong,” she says. She polishes nails in Maybelline Born With It, a pale pink, and then uses acrylic black paint to hand-detail a diamond design with a black portrait border. “We’re free-handing here, so I opted to use paint rather than polish because it dries so much quicker,” she explains. “This nail art design really put the idea of strength and this collection into art form.”
Would you wear the elaborate hair seen in this beauty look? Sound off in the comments!